The Thrill of the Open Road

October 21, 2014 ~ Bess Paper Goods & Gifts ~ 2 Comments

Well readers, it’s official, I’m as close to being Bermudian as I’m ever going to get. Not only did I survive my first hurricane last weekend (and first tropical storm the weekend before that), but my principle means of transportation is now a scooter. I’d had a rental bike until last week, which you don’t need a license for, but they have very small engines (so you can’t do much damage if you crash, I assume), and their license plates are a different color, so other drivers know to watch out for you.

Driving here takes some getting used to. Sure, I studied the book, took my written and riding exams… but in practice the rule of the road is all together different. For example, morning traffic on the main roads—relatively narrow, winding roads by U.S. standards—is technically two—but in practice four—lanes. Cars move slowly in both directions along the outer edges of the road while bikes weave in and out in both directions in the center, moving back into traffic when a bus or large truck is approaching. Meanwhile, at any red light in town, you’ll see scooter drivers pass by the stopped cars and come to a stop at the head of the line, often halfway into the intersection, or at least the cross walk. It is also incredibly common for vehicles to come to an abrupt stop with no warning for no apparent reason—until you realize they’re letting in another vehicle that does not have the right of way.

Good thing the speed limit is only 35 KPH! (Although obviously no one obeys that either.)

Good afternoon, y’alright?

September 29, 2014 ~ Bess Paper Goods & Gifts ~ Leave a comment

I’ve been spending a lot of time on the phone with Bermudian customer service representatives and government officials lately. One thing I’ve learned from all this interaction with local is if you don’t wish them good morning or good afternoon and allow them to do the same, you’re not getting anywhere. In fact, last week when I was one of five people waiting in the Customs office, a man walked in and greeted each one of us individually.

The common greeting when you see someone you know here is “Are you alright?” which often gets sort of mushed together into one word (“y’alright?”). I haven’t quite adopted the phrase yet, but I’ve started to fall in love with the idea of slowing down, saying “hi” and checking in with those you encounter. As someone who has admitted to a personal mantra of ‘efficiency’ in times past, slowing down—”wasting” time—is quite the challenge.

One of my goals for my time here is to practice mindfulness with more intention. So my first mindfulness challenge—for me and you both—is to adopt a little island attitude into daily interactions. Ask your coworker how they are before launching into whatever you need to get done. Easier yet—put down your phone/book/mental to-do list while walking down the street and smile at a stranger!

Bermuda in photos

September 17, 2014September 18, 2014 ~ Bess Paper Goods & Gifts ~ Leave a comment

What’s that? More pretty pics of my new home, please? Ok, if you insist!

The view from the pool at Tucker’s Point

This is what parking lots look like here: mostly bikes!

Green moss grows on beach rocks in the winter

Love tree roots in old sidewalks!

Lest you think Bermuda is just beaches and palm trees… This is Front Street, the main drag of the city of Hamilton

This is “our” beach :)

Parliament (I think)

Don’t worry I found an art store

Bermuda lobster! (Note no claws!)

Street signs here are posted on buildings… walls… or sometimes not at all!

Bermuda has the bluest water I’ve ever seen

Elbow Beach, near where we live

Elbow Beach

Adventures in Agriculture

September 13, 2014September 13, 2014 ~ Bess Paper Goods & Gifts ~ 2 Comments

I have what some might call a black thumb… That is I’ve killed nearly every plant I’ve ever owned. The only house plant I’ve ever had long-lasting success with is fondly named Spike, a succulent I picked up at the Dane County Farmers Market three summers back. Since I wasn’t sure if I could bring plants to Bermuda (and he was outgrowing his container again anyway), before I moved, I divided him up, repotted and gave him to friends and family.

However, I’ve decided that Bermuda’s high humidity could be the key to horticultural success. Forgot to water for… ahem… a while? No problem—90% humidity means the soil is still moist anyway! (And my hair has the texture of a Brillo pad.) So I hit up a local nursery and picked up some serious green.

First up: house plants! I honestly have no idea what the ones on the left are… their names have already escaped my brain. The ones on the right are tillandsia, or air plants… which I love and have managed to kill over and over again. Seriously! It doesn’t even need dirt and I can’t keep it alive! Again, I blame Wisconsin winters.

Produce here is expensive, not always the greatest quality and sometimes not even available. We are so spoiled in the U.S.! So I wanted to get a few things that we could eat. It’s an odd time of the year to start a garden, but I did manage to pick up a few strawberry plants and a really great selection of herbs. At first I had them mixed together in one long container, but the basil and mint are well on their way to shading everything else, and one of my strawberry plants sent out a runner, so I thought everyone could use a little more space to thrive. See, success already!

The last “plant” I’m working on is really more of an experiment. My friend Kaia (who blogs here) had a bit of a project going when I stopped by her house the other day. She had grown an avocado tree from a pit and was finally potting it. Apparently you can grow trees in your house! Anyway, I picked her brain for a how-to and now I’ve got two pits sitting in water… who knows what will happen. I’d share instructions, but I’m not even sure I did it right, so if I were you, I’d google! If—big if—I have anything sprout, I’ll share by expertise then!

Oh, and finally: limes. I certainly did not grow these, but Andrew picked them last weekend when he was golfing and hit a bad shot into a wooded area. Because we live in a place where lime trees just grow naturally. I wonder how long it will take me to get used to that!

Light and love, sand and sea

September 7, 2014September 7, 2014 ~ Bess Paper Goods & Gifts ~ Leave a comment

Call it a reflection of the American school system, or just the fact that Bermuda is seriously teeny tiny, but very few people I’ve told about my move know almost anything about it. Here are the answers to the most frequently asked questions:

Where is that? Not down by the Bahamas! Bermuda is much farther north than many people think. If you were to draw a horizontal line straight out from Charleston, SC you’d run right into the island. I usually leave from Atlanta, which is just under a 3 hour flight.

Why Bermuda? About a year and a half ago, I reconnected with an old boyfriend from high school and college… who happened to now live in Bermuda. He grew up in Wisconsin with me and was offered a job at a reinsurance firm. Reinsurance (companies that insure insurance companies) is a huge industry here, and there are several thousand expats working on the island. Some of our best friends here are English, Irish and Scottish.

What’s up with Bermuda shorts? Oh yes, they’re real. Generally brightly colored and slightly shorter than American men’s shorts, they are the business uniform for men in the summer. They can be worn with a jacket, tie, or just a dress shirt depending on the office culture, but they are always worn with tall (usually dark colored) socks and dress shoes. SERIOUSLY. This is the look!

Are you going to get a job? No. I looked before I moved, but Bermuda has very strict employment laws. I had to get a permit to reside here, and its contingent on my not seeking employment. I’m continuing to work for the magazine in Wisconsin and other freelance clients in the U.S. and continuing to print work for non-Bermudian shops. Please get in touch if you need design or letterpress work!

How big is it? Tiny! The entire country is about 20 square miles total and is actually made up of more than 100 islands. Some of Andrew’s coworkers commute by boat! Others drive small cars, but the most common means of transportation is a scooter. I’ve rented one for a few weeks now and I’m finally starting to feel steady on it. Another week or two of practice and I’ll be ready to take the test for my license!

What’s weather like there? Right now, it’s pretty hot—high 80’s (F) during the day, and humid. It doesn’t cool down at night like it does in Wisconsin, the temperature drops maybe 10 degrees. Winters here are rainy with temps in the 50’s and 60’s, which seems quite luxurious when compared to the winters I’m used to, but the air stays so humid that it feels colder—especially on a bike!

More questions? Leave them in the comments and I’ll get back to you!